Brussels lace

The King Baudouin Foundation has enriched Belgium’s public heritage with an exceptional 19th-century lace masterpiece, acquired through the Marie-Jeanne Dauchy Fund. Entirely handmade, this remarkable work exemplifies the finesse and excellence of Brussels lace craftsmanship. It will be unveiled at the Fashion & Lace Museum in Brussels from 12 November 2025 to 11 January 2026, before being showcased at BRAFA (stand no. 151) from 25 January to 1 February 2026. Afterwards, the piece will return to the museum’s reserves for further study and preservation.

This remarkable piece is a testament to the excellence of Brussels lace production, which brought the city international renown from the 18th to the early 20th century. Brussels holds a central place in the history of lace: emerging simultaneously in our regions and in Italy in the 16th century, it quickly gained international acclaim. Highly praised by elites from the 17th century onwards, lace became, two centuries later, a staple of women’s fashion thanks to mechanisation—though this also marked the decline of handmade lace.

A masterpiece in Point de Gaze

Square in shape with gently rounded corners, the textile is entirely crafted in Point de Gaze, a needle lace technique renowned for its finesse and complexity. Developed by Brussels manufacturers in the 19th century, these pieces were produced in local workshops and sold in Brussels and Paris. This cotton lace is distinguished by its airy mesh connecting floral motifs rendered with striking realism. First mentioned at the 1851 Great Exhibition in London, Point de Gaze allows for a wide variety of stitches and shading, skilfully capturing the contrasts and details of the ornamental flowers popular at the time. The light background, made row by row with a single thread, gives the piece a remarkable lightness. Point de Gaze is sometimes referred to as rose point, in reference to the layered petals of the roses often depicted.

A sumptuous floral design

The design of this piece is particularly well balanced. At the centre, a lavish composition blends branches, leaves and flowers: veined chestnut leaves, dahlias, vine garlands and grape clusters, blooming peonies, roses, foxgloves, bellflowers, hydrangeas… Each corner features these motifs in large teardrop-shaped medallions, and each border is adorned with three medallions repeating the same motifs. The entire piece is framed by a wide, dense border with the same floral elements. To this day, the original use of the piece remains uncertain: shawl, cape, veil or tablecloth? Further research may provide clarity. What is known, however, is that Point de Gaze — one of the most precious lace techniques — was reserved for prestigious pieces. Given its impressive dimensions (200 x 195 cm), this piece was likely a commissioned work or a demonstration piece intended to showcase the manufacturer’s craftsmanship at major exhibitions of the time.

A preserved and celebrated heritage

The acquisition of this piece was made possible thanks to the support of the Marie-Jeanne Dauchy Fund, managed by the King Baudouin Foundation, which has placed it on loan to the Fashion & Lace Museum in Brussels. The work now joins the Lace Room, the museum space dedicated to this fabric. It will be unveiled at the Fashion & Lace Museum from 12 November 2025 to 11 January 2026, before being showcased at BRAFA (stand no. 151) from 25 January to 1 February 2026. Afterwards, the piece will return to the museum’s reserves for further study and preservation.